Can you explain repaint older kitchen appliances the process? Called electrostatic painting, it’s the smart way to spruce up metal and porcelain appliances that still work great. Painting takes care of scratches and outdated or mismatched colors on all of your appliances for less than the price of one new refrigerator or range.

Paint professionals (listed in the Yellow Pages under appliance refinishing) can do the work right in your own kitchen.
You need a dust-free environment, so make sure the sawdust has settled from any remodeling work before the contractor arrives. Before painting, you must thoroughly wipe clean the surfaces of the appliances and unplug the refrigerator for about 24 hours.

The contractor will ground the appliances to create a negative electrical current in the appliances’ metal coating. A special electrostatic gun positively charges the paint as it is being sprayed. The positively charged paint actually bonds in a magnetic fashion to the negatively charged appliances. Let the paint dry for at least 12 hours and do not use the appliances for at least 24 hours.

Choose the right paint tool

Rust-Oleum, Krylon, and Giani are three popular brands of household paint and repaint older kitchen appliances. Rust-Oleum and Krylon both offer options in black, white, almond, and bisque / biscuit. And Giani offers Liquid Stainless Steel, a DIY kit that allows you to give your old and out-of-date stainless steel look sleek and luxurious. Davis recommends spray paint because it is easy to apply to equipment.

Prepare equipment for painting

To achieve a professional looking result, you need to adhere to the proven pre-painting rituals for repaint older kitchen appliances.

“The first step is thorough cleaning of most of the equipment, because they are exposed to fingerprints, oil and food debris,” Childress said.

If the appliance is old and has rust marks, he recommends sanding the rust to remove it before you start painting.

Many people try to skip the cleaning and sanding steps, but if you don’t remove dirt and other residue, the paint won’t stick to your equipment.

“You also have to unplug, and remove or cover all hardware and grips,” Davis said.

Different paint tools for Repaint Older Kitchen Appliances

You can get professional-looking results by painting your tools yourself. However, this isn’t the time to use extra wall paint on rusty cans in your garage. Equipment paint is specially formulated for metal surfaces and for the type of extra tough wear applied to equipment.

When you Start Repaint Older Kitchen Appliances

The best way to avoid accidents is to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the products you use. To avoid inhaling paint fumes, don’t paint your appliance indoors. Instead, paint outdoors or in a well-ventilated garage. Also, it is best to have everything you need before you start your project repaint older kitchen appliances.

You’ll need the following tools and materials, according to Ami Gruenenfelder at paint company Giani:

  • – Painter’s ribbon
    – Paint roller tray (unless you are using spray paint)
    – Phillips head screwdriver (to remove handle)
    – Fine sandpaper # 600 grit (for sanding accidental drops)

Another feature of my library and one of its strengths is my collection of original unpublished nonbook material. Manuscripts, typescripts, and letters are the jewels in every collector’s crown, and they are increasingly difficult to obtain. Ever since the manuscript of Ulysses was stolen at auction by Dr. Rosenbach, writers have been sensitive about the market value of their product. Many prefer to sell or donate their papers to institutions and universities.
Under the circumstances I am lucky to have important book-length manuscripts by Thomas Merton, Stanley El-kin, James Purdy, Grace Paley, Nick Delbanco, Elmore Leonard, and Craig Nova, as well as more modest works by Steinbeck, Bellow, Wolfe, Agee, Lowell, and Elizabeth Bishop.
I’m also fortunate to be the custodian of an extensive archive of unpublished letters, many of which provide unique insight into the writer and his work. Like the letter Henry James wrote to William Dean Howells describing his first impressions of London; Sylvia Plath’s letters to William Merwin expounding the joys and terrors of childbirth; John Cheever’s war letters to his wife; the reclusive Thomas Pynchon’s chatty correspondence with his literary agent, now ex-agent.

Finally I should mention the material that to some extent represents a new field of collecting screenplays and playscripts. At one time or another almost every important American writer has toiled in the vineyards of Hollywood or Broadway. They churned out a great deal of schlock, but occasionally a great writer produced a true work of art. Like Faulkner’s adaptation of The Big Sleep, Fitzgerald’s work on Gone with the Wind, Steinbeck’s Viva Zapata!, Hammett and Hellman’s Watch on the Rhine, Welles and Man-kiewicz’s Citizen Kane. These writers’ screenplays are all part of my library. And there are other film writers, who, I believe, are equally deserving of recognition and respect: Ben Hecht, Dalton Trumbo, Billy Wilder, Terry Southern, and Woody Allen, among others. No collection of American literature can be considered complete without examples of their work, and most of their work remains unpublished.

In the same way, for every published book by playwrights like Tennessee Williams, Arthur Miller, Sam Shepard, and David Mamet, there are half a dozen unpublished works in the form of rehearsal scripts, story outlines, tele-plays, radio plays, scenarios, and film treatments. No one, including the bibliographers, really knows how much material there is. I own more than fifty important unpublished dramatic works by Tennessee Williams, and they represent only a small percentage of his total output. Finding and assembling this kind of material is one of the greatest challenges and opportunities facing the modern collector.